Your tyre pressure
29.5 mm mountedSmooth tarmac
Front
66psi
4.53 bar
Try 62 to 70
Rear
71psi
4.87 bar
Try 66 to 75
Find your tyre, add your weight, and get a front and rear pressure for every surface you ride.
Use this bike tyre pressure calculator to find a front and rear pressure for your exact setup. Search for your tyre, add your weight and rim width, and get a starting pressure in psi and bar for every kind of surface. It works for road, gravel, mountain, hybrid and loaded touring bikes, on tubes or tubeless, and it won't suggest more than a hookless rim allows.
401 tyres from 29 brands. Not listed? Just set the width below.
Width on the sidewall
28 mmOn this rim it should measure about 29.5 mm.
Rim internal width
21 mmPrinted on the rim or the wheel's spec page. Wider rims spread the tyre, so it needs less air.
Rider
75.0 kgInclude clothes, shoes and helmet.
Bike and kit weight
9.0 kgStarts at a typical road bike. Include bottles and bags.
Temperature on the ride
20°CAir loses pressure as it cools, so a cold ride starts softer than the pump said.
Temperature where you pump
20°CWeight on the front wheel
45%Most bikes sit between 40% and 48%. More on the rear means more rear pressure.
Calipers across the inflated tyre beat any label. This is the input that moves road pressure the most.
We'll never suggest more than the lowest limit you enter here.
Smooth tarmac
Front
66psi
4.53 bar
Try 62 to 70
Rear
71psi
4.87 bar
Try 66 to 75
Tap a surface to see it above. Pressures in psi.
This is a starting point. Ride a familiar stretch, change 2 to 3 psi at a time, and use the same pump, since many gauges read a few psi off.
The number printed on a tyre's sidewall is a limit, not a recommendation. The right pressure depends on how much weight the tyre carries, how wide it is once mounted, and how rough the road is. This bike tyre pressure calculator turns those into one figure for each wheel, so you can stop guessing at the pump.
Use it as a road bike tyre pressure calculator on tarmac or a gravel tyre pressure calculator when the road runs out. Wider tyres need less air, and rear tyres need more than fronts because they carry more weight. Rougher ground needs less air again, because a softer tyre floats over bumps instead of bouncing your weight off them.
It also works as a tubeless tyre pressure calculator and a hookless tyre pressure calculator. Hookless rims have firm limits that drop as tyres get wider, so the calculator holds your result at that limit and tells you when it has. If you ride in the cold, enter the temperature to see what to pump to indoors. Your tyres lose pressure as the air cools.
Every result comes with a range to test and a chart for other surfaces, and you can save the whole setup as a link. Use it once when you change tyres, then again before a big ride or a change of terrain.
Nobody agrees on one perfect formula. SILCA, Zipp and Rene Herse each use their own model. We start from Berto's published data, check our results against published reference values, and show every adjustment we make. The result is a good place to start, not a lab measurement.
Frank Berto measured real tyres and suggested a tyre should compress about 15% of its height under load. A fit to his chart gives the base pressure from the load on the wheel and the mounted width. We ease the load slightly above 90 kg, as impedance-based models do, and extend the curve past 50 mm for MTB tyres with our own power law.
P = 600 · L / W² + 0.75 · W − 25
Width drives road pressure more than anything else, and the label is only a guide. We estimate mounted width from fits published in the BikeLab white paper. Wider rims add about 0.4 mm of tyre width per millimetre of rim. A caliper reading replaces the estimate.
W = nominal + offset + 0.4 · (rim − 18)
Above a certain pressure, a tyre stops absorbing bumps and starts bouncing you off them, which costs more than the softer tyre would. SILCA calls this the breakpoint, and it falls as the surface gets rougher. Our surface adjustments are our own estimates, set against the published calculators.
Inner tubes add friction and pinch-flat risk, so we suggest about 5% more pressure with a tube than with tubeless. That margin is our own estimate. SILCA and others agree that tubeless needs no big blanket reduction.
Hookless rims hold the tyre with air pressure and a tight bead, so they have firm limits that drop as tyres get wider. We apply the ETRTO limits as published by Schwalbe and hold your result there. A lower limit from your rim or tyre maker always wins.
Air pressure follows absolute temperature, so a tyre pumped in a warm hallway reads lower on a cold road. We apply the gas law to the absolute pressure inside the tyre to tell you what to pump to.
P_pump = (P_ride + 14.7) · T_pump / T_ride − 14.7

Free forever on 3 routes
Free forever on 3 routes.
For a 75 kg rider on a 9 kg bike with 28 mm tyres on smooth tarmac, this calculator suggests about 66 psi front and 71 psi rear with tubes on a 21 mm rim. A narrower tyre, a heavier rider or a narrower rim all raise that. Enter your own setup above, because a few millimetres of width change the answer more than most riders expect.
It starts from Frank Berto's 15% tyre-drop rule: a tyre should compress by about 15% of its height under load. The load on each wheel and the mounted tyre width give a base pressure. We then adjust it for surface, tubes versus tubeless and wheel size, and apply any rim limits. The results page shows each adjustment.
The rear wheel usually carries 55% or more of the combined weight of you and your bike. On a typical road bike the front runs about 7% lower. It doesn't fall further because braking moves weight forward, and the front tyre needs to stay stable when that happens.
Only slightly. Tubeless removes the friction between tube and tyre and rules out pinch flats, so you can run a little less air safely. We suggest about 5% less than you'd run with an inner tube. The pressure that rolls fastest barely changes, which is why we don't take off more.
A hooked rim has a small lip that grips the tyre bead. A hookless rim has straight walls, and the tyre is held on by air pressure alone, so it only works with tubeless-ready tyres and has a firm pressure limit. We only ask when you pick tubeless. Many newer tubeless road and gravel wheels are hookless, so check the wheel's spec page. If you ride with inner tubes, you can skip it.
The widely used limit is 5 bar (72.5 psi) for 25 to 29 mm tyres, and it drops as tyres get wider: 4.5 bar from 30 mm, 4 bar from 35 mm, 3.5 bar from 40 mm and 3 bar from 45 mm. Your rim or tyre maker may set a lower limit, and that one takes priority. Enter it under fine-tuning and the calculator will respect it.
A little. A softer tyre grips better on wet roads, so many riders take off a few psi. We don't ask about the weather because any figure would be a guess. Start with a couple of psi less than the number above, and add some back if the tyre feels vague in corners.
Yes. Pump a tyre to 70 psi in a 20°C hallway and ride at 3°C, and it drops to around 65 psi. The calculator can work out what to pump to, so your tyres reach the right pressure on the road. Enter both temperatures under fine-tuning.
Pressure falls roughly with the square of width, so a small change in width means a noticeable change in pressure. The label isn't always accurate either: real widths vary by model and grow on wider rims. We estimate your mounted width from the sidewall size and rim, but a caliper measurement is more accurate and you can enter it under fine-tuning.
Treat it as a well-informed starting point. We checked six setups against the SILCA and Rene Herse averages implied by a published comparison, and the rear pressure landed within 15% each time. Rider preference, tyre construction and your pump's gauge can each shift the ideal by a few psi, so test a few pressures on a road you know.
Yes, as a starting point. Berto's data stops at around 50 mm, so we extend it with a curve checked against common MTB setups. Tyre construction, inserts and riding style matter a lot on wide tyres, so expect to adjust by feel from there.
The right pressure makes any ride feel better. The right hour makes it feel faster. Plan your ride for when the weather is on your side.